De Mondion, Mdina, Malta
Dinner Above the Silent City – de Mondion, Mdina
Some meals become part of the story of a holiday. Others become the story itself.
Our stay at the Xara Palace in Mdina was one of those rare experiences where everything seemed to slow down. By day, the narrow limestone streets of the Silent City invited quiet wandering, but as evening arrived we entered de Mondion for what would become one of the highlights of our time in Malta.
There's something wonderfully unhurried about dining in a city that has stood for centuries. Looking out across the island as dusk settled over the landscape, the setting felt every bit as memorable as the food itself.
I began with foie gras, delicately paired with hibiscus and miso. It was a combination that sounded unexpected on paper but arrived beautifully balanced, with the floral notes of the hibiscus lifting the richness of the foie gras while the miso added a gentle savoury depth.
For my main course, Irish lamb rump was served alongside beetroot, celeriac and warm Arabic spices. The dish felt perfectly suited to Malta's position at the crossroads of Europe and North Africa, with familiar ingredients enhanced by subtle spice and careful technique.
Pudding is often the course I remember most, and de Mondion certainly didn't disappoint. A beautifully risen soufflé arrived with lemon meringue and yoghurt, impossibly light yet full of flavour. Alongside it came a second dessert of 70% Trinitario chocolate with pear and Piedmont hazelnut, a rich, elegant finish that was as beautiful to look at as it was to eat. Thankfully, these are the dishes I managed to photograph and looking back at the images instantly takes me back to that evening.
The details of every bite may have softened with time, but the feeling hasn’t. I still remember the calm atmosphere, the impeccable service, the golden stone glowing in the evening light, and that sense of dining somewhere truly special.
Perhaps that’s the mark of a memorable restaurant. It’s not just the food you remember, but the way an evening made you feel.
If you're planning a visit to Malta and find yourself staying in, or simply wandering through, Mdina, I'd wholeheartedly recommend setting aside an evening for de Mondion. It is an experience that lingers long after you've left the Silent City.
